Subtraction Cutting Dress
About twelve years ago I took several workshops with designer Julian Roberts. He is the inventor/designer of this amazing technique. He hails from the UK. There are many links online that will offer you endless hours of research and learning about his Subtraction Cutting technique. I have found a few links (all listed below) that are excellent. I believe Robert’s is still traveling the world teaching, so if you ever have the chance to study with him directly, I would highly suggest just that!
In Julian’s words “I call this method of cutting garments ‘Subtraction Cutting’ because the resulting shape is created by the removal of fabric, rather than the addition of fabric.”
So far I have created close to thirty of these dresses. I’ve even made a pair of trousers, and loads of scarves, using this technique. This dress was one of my first. I used rayon lining and a small checked rayon. The dress takes several yards of fabric, I usually end up using 6 to 8 yards, depending on the width. You can use just one fashion fabric, or piece several together before cutting the dress out. I have made them with and without sleeves. This one is sleeveless but I’ve popped a lace top on creating a totally different feel and look.
You can also change the look with coats and shoes. Below are few ways I wear this particular Subtraction Dress. The coat I created in an almost solid black canvas. One day I had the notion to just snip the bottom portion off, snip snip. Now I had 2 pieces. I felt it needed color, so I commissioned an amazing artist, Miles Frode, to paint in his incredible style. No strings attached. He was nervous as it was already in coat form, not flat fabric. But wow, he masterfully turned in into an artful masterpiece. I used lingerie/stocking hooks at the bottom and top edge of the pieces so I can hook it together or wear them separately. Link to Frode’s website - www.milesfrodeart.com, Instagram - @milesfrode
Links to Julian Robert’s Subtraction Cutting
Here you will not only see Julian at work, and several of his dresses, but you can copy his handwritten directions.
Link to StitchlessTV youtube tutorial - Part 1 of 2 of Subtraction Cutting
Link to Stitchless TV youtube tutorial - Part 2 of 2 of Subtraction Cutting
Photo Credits: Images by Robert Gelber
Click On Any Image To Enlarge For A Slideshow
